Sneakers for Social Justice?
Dave Zirin

http://www.thenation.com/doc/20061002/southpaw

Stephon Marbury, the wildly talented and widely criticized point guard for the New York Knicks, usually carries a Q rating commensurate with Kim Jong Il. Making max dollars and being the face of the NBA's most dysfunctional franchise will do that. But Marbury has been drawing high-profile praise in recent days for promoting a new basketball sneaker described as "revolutionary."

What's "revolutionary" about the new Starbury One--a reference to Marbury's on-court moniker--is that it doesn't cost as much as a plane ticket to Maui. The Starbury Ones are listed at $14.98.That's $14.98. Not $149.80. As William Rhoden recently wrote in the New York Times, "This is an industry in which star athletes encourage children to buy shoes for anywhere from $75 to $200."

The shoe is not cardboard and canvas but serious and solid enough that Marbury has pledged to wear them in games this season. He says his motivation was rooted in discussions he had with Knicks GM Isaiah Thomas about the civil rights movement and Marbury's eventual legacy.

"[Thomas] was explaining to me how my generation never went through anything," Marbury told Rhoden. "There was a generation that went through things that we never even envisioned. For me to be able to talk with him, get insight on how things were back in the day, I got a picture of what he created for me to see. It made me feel like I want to put my mark on history as far as letting people know that I'm a part of something that I'm moving with. All this is brand new, this is revolutionary, the thing that we're doing right now." In tune with the idea of a sneaker for social justice, Marbury's website urges visitors to "join the movement," and the chic insignia, familiar to those with a fascination for Che Guevara, is a stylized red star.

Marbury isn't all talk. He has a history of putting his money where his heart is. He pledged about $500,000 last year to help victims of Hurricane Katrina and then wept at a press conference. "It's not even about money, he said. "Now, it's more about everybody coming together and just trying to live as one.... I keep looking at my kids. You don't think about anything else, you just hold them so tight. They don't even know why you're looking at them like that. You want to cry in front of them, but they don't understand."


The Starbury One sneaker is being produced and retailed by Steve and Barry's University Sportswear--and they are flying out of the stores as quickly as they are being made. As Howard Schacter from Steve and Barry's told me, "The vision we shared with Stephon was to eliminate the incredible pressure kids and parents feel to pay top dollar for the latest and coolest sneakers and clothes. What we're saying is, You can pay a lot less for these things.... That message has definitely sparked a movement in this country, as consumers' eyes have been opened to the fact that it simply doesn't cost that much to make high-quality sneakers and clothes."

But the Starbury One--because of both its price and the fact that it is being marketed as footwear for social justice--has also invited scrutiny. The athletic shoe industry is notorious for some of the most appalling of sweatshop conditions. Are the Starbury Ones, made in China, produced in such a manner?

Schacter says no. "We are a member of the Fair Labor Association," he says. "More importantly, firmly embedded in our history and culture is a deep commitment to legal compliance and ethical business practices. This commitment is a fundamental part of the philosophy upon which we were founded."

Schacter says that costs are kept low because their business model "eliminates the middleman" by producing their own product and selling them in Steve and Barry's stores. They also rely on word-of-mouth instead of national advertising campaigns.

But some leading antisweatshop activists doubt this claim precisely because the shoe is manufactured in China. Jim Keady is a former professional soccer player and coach at St. John's University who is now co-director of the antisweatshop organization Educating for Justice. He is also a member of the City Council in Asbury Park, New Jersey. "One of the key ways to define a sweatshop is whether workers have the right to develop an independent, democratic voice in the workplace either by creating a worker-owned cooperative or an independent trade union," he said to me. "In China both cooperatives and independent trade unions are illegal, and therefore I would bet my professional reputation that these shoes are produced in sweatshop conditions. That said, Asbury Park has a poverty rate of 30 percent. I see kids buying sneakers I know they can't afford, so it is a good thing an affordable sneaker is available."

Scott Nova, from the Worker Rights Consortium, an antisweatshop monitoring group, also disagreed with Schacter's confidence in Steve and Barry's labor practices. "We have found serious human rights violations in factories producing for Steve and Barry's," he told me. "The company's response has been a mixed bag. In one case, the company did take action and progress was achieved. In another, we reported serious violations, including sexual abuse of women workers by managers. Steve and Barry's response was slow and ineffective.

"It is laudable that Steve and Barry's is offering affordable sneakers," Nova continued. "But there is another side to the moral equation: the workers who make the shoes. What are they paid? And what are their conditions of work? Ignoring worker rights could transform a worthy endeavor into another case of sweatshop exploitation. If the low price of these shoes means sweatshop conditions and sub-poverty wages for the workers who make them, then the positive purpose of the enterprise is severely undermined. Stephon Marbury is obviously trying to do something positive and deserves to be applauded for it. Addressing the worker rights issues will enhance his effort."

I was unable to reach Marbury for this piece, but it's difficult to imagine him being unsympathetic to the plight of workers overseas. He has spoken out about selling sodas on the beaches of Coney Island as a young boy, trudging on the sand and trying to scrape a dollar or two from the tourists visiting the famed amusement park. It was a childhood that would be familiar to many children in the "market-Stalinism" world of China, where kids rush tourists offering cheap goods, attempting to get a crumb or two off the table.

As Jim Keady said, "The real slam-dunk would be if Stephon Marbury came forward and said, 'Not only do I want poor kids to be able to afford my sneakers. I want their moms and dads to have good-paying factory jobs-- in Coney Island, Bed-Stuy or Asbury Park for that matter. Imagine that: a sneaker made for the players in Brooklyn by the people in Brooklyn, he said. "Would they be able to sell them for $14.98? Maybe not, but that would be a tremendous model that other athletes and other entrepreneurs could follow."

my goodness...would he be getting this much flak about "sweatshops" if his snaekers cost $80?

And I don't doubt that the fact he is almost without any endorsement that it was this "Im doing the world a favor" or nothing.

Anyone know how many have sold or how much he makes for each sale? I've been curious.

Any "movement" here should be credited to Steve and Barry - they are the ones selling everything in the store so cheap. Marbury has just bandwagoned on.

In fact the Starburys are the most EXPENSIVE items in the store. I can only presume that is to allow for Marbury's cut of profits

This is business. Charity would be if he funneled his profits back into social causes. You know like a school, a rec center, job training and the like...

Posted by Nalod:

Posted by Silverfuel:

Posted by Nalod:

Cynical? Yeah, towelbury don't get my benefit of the doubt after 10 years of selfish antics in this league.

Dude, thats terrible. The guy was trying to do a good thing like he did when he gave money after Katrina. Give him a break.

[Edited by - Silverfuel on 09-21-2006 09:35 AM]

First off a Pledge is an unbinding promise. It could be $500k over 10 years! Ok, lets just say its a lump sum! I said its a good thing.

But a $hitty attidude basketball player who is the posterboy for selfish stat building at the expense of all around him giving money is no monumental feat! It was very public with makes disgenuine in my book.

My clients give away millions a year and don't have emotional breakdowns doing it. Or are their careers as publicly noted for being "all alone".

Like I said, if he was like paul newman who gives all the profits to charity then its a good thing.

Selling cheap clothes is not new. WalMark, Target, Old Navy, are just a few who can outfit families for little money. Steve and Barry's existed before Marbury.

A self centered nucklehead like Marbury going this kind of marketing is attention getting and good for buisness. He will make money doing it and it will give the appearence of him being benevelant at the same time. Its a good gig I must admit.

So all we know is He pledged 500k, gave away some pencils, free haircuts and SELLS for PROFIT cheap sneakers and apparel and this warrant a nobel peace prize?

Lets start with being a postive force on his basketball team and winning some games.

Tell me again why he gets paid 20 million? To be the sneaker skippy king or be a franchise player who runs a franchise?

Get me in the playoffs and show me he can sacrifice some of his game to win and make those around him better. Sacraficing 500k to a disaster relief is EASY if you super wealthy and have some moral reasoning. Sacrificing some statistics and working with coaches has proven to be impossible for him.

Hey man get a grip, he doing stuff outside of basketball what he does on the court has no value on what he does for charity. So he is not giving away sneakers he is making them affordable to people who cannot the overpriced sneakers plastered all over the place. Give credit where credit is due. This rant reeks of personal hatred not only to Marbury the player but Marbury as a person. C'mon man lighten up.

I sold my stereo system to a couple poor kids in college. I sold it to them for about $200 less than I could have gotten on Ebay. Quick write an article about me :)

Posted by buddapaw:

Posted by Nalod:

Posted by Silverfuel:

Posted by Nalod:

Cynical? Yeah, towelbury don't get my benefit of the doubt after 10 years of selfish antics in this league.

Dude, thats terrible. The guy was trying to do a good thing like he did when he gave money after Katrina. Give him a break.

[Edited by - Silverfuel on 09-21-2006 09:35 AM]

First off a Pledge is an unbinding promise. It could be $500k over 10 years! Ok, lets just say its a lump sum! I said its a good thing.

But a $hitty attidude basketball player who is the posterboy for selfish stat building at the expense of all around him giving money is no monumental feat! It was very public with makes disgenuine in my book.

My clients give away millions a year and don't have emotional breakdowns doing it. Or are their careers as publicly noted for being "all alone".

Like I said, if he was like paul newman who gives all the profits to charity then its a good thing.

Selling cheap clothes is not new. WalMark, Target, Old Navy, are just a few who can outfit families for little money. Steve and Barry's existed before Marbury.

A self centered nucklehead like Marbury going this kind of marketing is attention getting and good for buisness. He will make money doing it and it will give the appearence of him being benevelant at the same time. Its a good gig I must admit.

So all we know is He pledged 500k, gave away some pencils, free haircuts and SELLS for PROFIT cheap sneakers and apparel and this warrant a nobel peace prize?

Lets start with being a postive force on his basketball team and winning some games.

Tell me again why he gets paid 20 million? To be the sneaker skippy king or be a franchise player who runs a franchise?

Get me in the playoffs and show me he can sacrifice some of his game to win and make those around him better. Sacraficing 500k to a disaster relief is EASY if you super wealthy and have some moral reasoning. Sacrificing some statistics and working with coaches has proven to be impossible for him.

Hey man get a grip, he doing stuff outside of basketball what he does on the court has no value on what he does for charity. So he is not giving away sneakers he is making them affordable to people who cannot the overpriced sneakers plastered all over the place. Give credit where credit is due. This rant reeks of personal hatred not only to Marbury the player but Marbury as a person. C'mon man lighten up.

He is not making them affordable. He is not subsidizing them, nor giving them awy. He is marketing them and the PR is just a joke!

The market does not force anyone to buy expensive sneakers. Nike does not condone kids to go out and shoot to get them!

Blame Mcdonalds for fatty foods too? Blame the oil companies?

Consumer consumption is what fuels Demand!

No props to Marbury for "MAKING THEM AFFORDABLE"!

Believeing that makes you a brain dead manipulated consumer! I doubt thats the case, but Marbury is not santa clause, the tooth fairy, Che Guevara, Fidel Castro, and nor is he "Making shoes affordable"!

Steve and Barry have a profitable operation already.

THis is not about a movement, its about marketing! Good marketing plan by the way. It seems to be working to tee. Look how many folks around here are thinking Marbury's Movement is legit?

Posted by Silverfuel:

Posted by martin:

Should we champion PayLessShoes, KMart, Walmart too? They sell some damn cheapies.

You can if you want but I'm guessing you would do it on a Walmart/K-mart forum. I know a lot of people that say Walmart saves them money they can use for gas etc. Its not strange that we would want to say something good about a Knick player trying to sell cheap stuff.

And Nalod, I never said he was doing charity. I said he was trying to do a good thing. Just because its not a completely selfless act doesn't make it bad. If another athlete like Duncan got behind a shoe that sold for cheap, Spurs fans will say good things about that!!

Spurs fans love duncan because he is a winner and likable. He is marketable. He makes good money on endorsements using his POSITIVE ON COURT IMAGE AS A GOOD TEAM MATE AND AN MVP WHO WINS CHAMPIONSHIPS.

What is newsworthing here is Marbury is using his selfish image to promote inexpensive clthing. The shock value is what is being marketed. Its a brilliant marketing strategy!

I'd have been far more impressed if he just went out and told kids to be less brand conscious and materialistic and invited them to shop at all kinds of discount stores, like Steven and Barry's, Payless, K-mart and the like. tell them to work on their character and be good teammates and for them to think about ways to be charitable, even in spite of their poverty.

I would find that inspiring and I think it would have a lot more social relevance than him marketing himself as the next great thing.

It don't matter how much profit he makes off of the shoes.

The vision we shared with Stephon was to eliminate the incredible pressure kids and parents feel to pay top dollar for the latest and coolest sneakers and clothes.

Thats what its about. By Marbury putting his name on it. It makes it more attractive for younger kids to want to buy it and not feel embarrassed by wearing the cheap brand of clothes that other students will make fun of them for. They wear Payless shoes they will get made fun of. They wear Marburys shoes they are apart of the trend. If he makes profit who cares. The shoes are still $15.
The only problem is if they make them in sweatshops or not.

As Jim Keady said, "The real slam-dunk would be if Stephon Marbury came forward and said, 'Not only do I want poor kids to be able to afford my sneakers. I want their moms and dads to have good-paying factory jobs-- in Coney Island, Bed-Stuy or Asbury Park for that matter. Imagine that: a sneaker made for the players in Brooklyn by the people in Brooklyn, he said. "Would they be able to sell them for $14.98? Maybe not, but that would be a tremendous model that other athletes and other entrepreneurs could follow."

That would be a really great move.

That would be easy...and ineffective.

Posted by BlueSeats:

I'd have been far more impressed if he just went out and told kids to be less brand conscious and materialistic and invited them to shop at all kinds of discount stores, like Steven and Barry's, Payless, K-mart and the like. tell them to work on their character and be good teammates and for them to think about ways to be charitable, even in spite of their poverty.

I would find that inspiring and I think it would have a lot more social relevance than him marketing himself as the next great thing.